May. 12, 2025
Looking for the best watercolor brushes? Let me just state the obvious: This is an overwhelming task. There are so many opinions, brands, and styles of brushes that it can be difficult to actually know if you’re choosing the right brush.
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If you’ve been following my blog or YouTube channel for a while, then you’ll know I’m a HUGE fan of Princeton brushes. Specifically, the Heritage series for my watercolor paintings. While these brushes are my top picks, I know that some of this comes down to preference and budget, so I thought I’d round up an ultimate guide to watercolor brushes, and share more of my top picks and what they’re used for, so you can go out on your own and choose what’s best for you and your style! Plus, some of these brands might be easier to find in your area.
Before we dive in, let me just say this. Picking the right watercolor brush is like choosing the perfect tool for a job—it makes a world of difference! Imagine trying to paint a delicate flower petal with a square-shape, stiff brush. Frustrating, right? The right brush not only makes your painting experience smoother but also lets you achieve those beautiful, fluid strokes and fine details that make your art pop.
Whether you're going for broad, sweeping landscapes or intricate botanical illustrations, having a variety of quality brushes at your disposal means you'll be equipped for any artistic challenge. Plus, a good brush has a good snap and holds the right amount of water and pigment, giving you more control over your work. So, don't skimp on your brushes—I promise I'll give you more affordable options (that are still good!) below. Plus, if you're just getting started with watercolor painting, make sure to grab my FREE complete guide to watercolor for beginners.
Related: The Ultimate Guide to Watercolor Paper and The Ultimate Guide to Watercolor Paints
I'm going to share my favorite brands (and the pros and cons of each) below, but to make sure you know exactly what I mean when I say certain things, here's a glossary of terms you might want to know (this will help you decode labels on professional artist tools!).
This is measured by how well a brush “snaps” back to its original shape or parallel after it’s bent. I use synthetic hair brushes that are uniquely designed to mimic Kolinsky Sable hair which is very flexible and snap-y.
Spring on the other hand, refers to how well a brush holds its shape when you’re applying different watercolor techniques or dragging it across your paper. If the hair of the brush remains bent for longer, it has a good spring!
This one is simply how much water a brush can hold. This will vary depending on the size and shape of the brush, but certain series and brands of brushes will have a better capacity than others.
And PS – before we dive into hair types, if you're excited to learn more about art terms and eager to improve your skills, whether it's a new hobby or your career, I'd love to invite you to join The Art Within. It's been recently updated (as of August ), and I share everything they should have taught you in Art School (from technical skills to finding your creative style!).
Next, let's talk about the different hair types you might want for your watercolor brushes. I've already mentioned I lean more toward synthetic options, but I'm going to talk about the pros and cons below.
There are pros and cons to using both synthetic and natural hair brushes. I personally prefer synthetic hair brushes for the price point and the fact that they don’t come from harming animals. Neither are great for the environment if I'm being honest, so it’s important that when choosing a brush, you know how to take care of it so it lasts a lifetime!
Related: How to Clean Your Watercolor Brushes
This is the most coveted and prized hair for watercolor brushes. Especially Kolinsky Sable. If you’re a natural hair brush person, this is what you want to look for. This type of hair is best for round shape brushes because of the snap. The Princeton Heritage series is a synthetic sable hair brush and is a fraction of the cost of natural sable hair brushes.
This one is similar to sable hair, but softer and they’re not as spring-y as the prized sable hair. I love a good synthetic squirrel hair brush for mop brushes or covering a large surface area though! Obviously you can use the natural squirrel hair, I’m just not a natural hair brush person.
Hog brushes are my least favorite. They’re made of really stiff and coarse hair. I’d really only use this hair with a flat brush because I like a lot of bounce or spring when I’m painting with watercolor.
Goat hair watercolor brushes are traditionally used in Japanese calligraphy and wash brushes. Brushes with this type of hair don’t usually form a crisp point.
Lastly, we have Ox hair. This is another hair I’d only use for flat brushes because of the stiffness. With that said, this type of hair is really great for dry brush texture though!
I'm going to give you a few tips on how to choose the best watercolor brushes for you next, but before I do, let's talk about the different brush shapes you might want to shop for.
My favorite and the most diverse and versatile shape. A 2-in-1 stroke brush! The tip of the brush comes to a fine point, and when you use the “belly” or width of the brush, you can get a nice, fat stroke. In my opinion, every watercolor artist should have at least 2 different size round brushes in their selection — a size 6 and size 16. My Princeton Heritage series rounds are my ride or dies.
These brushes are most commonly used in washes, stripes and more linear strokes and shapes. For this style of brush, I love the Princeton Aqua Elite series flat brushes, specifically the Mottler!
Imagine a flat brush, but make it slanted. The only difference between a flat brush and dagger brush is the sharp edge or corner you can use for painting details.
Think really fat bellies (what a visual, eh?). These brushes are typically made of squirrel (natural or synthetic) hair and are great for drinking up lots of water and still keeping a good point. I personally will always choose a round brush over a mop brush because mop brushes are more difficult to control.
Last but not least, we have detail brushes. The most common detail brushes are riggers and spotters. The main difference between the two is that riggers have longer hair or bristles than spotters. If you’re going to splurge on any type of brush, you want to make sure to invest in a really good quality detail brush. Riggers will give you longer loads because the hair is longer. Think thin lines and larger details, while spotters are great for smaller details.
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If you’re starting from scratch and don’t want to break the bank, my advice is always to go for 1 small brush (like a detail brush or a round size 2), 1 medium round brush (size 6 is my fave!), 1 large round (size 16), 1 filbert brush (size 12), and a large wash/flat brush (Mottler from Aqua Elite). This will give you a well-rounded collection and get you painting anything from flowers to landscapes, portraits to objects in both loose and realistic styles.
Then in terms of knowing which brush to use for particular moments in a painting or technique, keep in mind the tips above and ask yourself these questions:
I'm going to share the pros and cons of the best brands of watercolor brushes below, but if you're ready to start shopping you can find all of my favorites over in my Amazon store.
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Here's a more in-depth look at this series:
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Here's an in-depth look at these Winsor & Newton Cotman brushes:
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See all sizes of shapes of Cotman brushes here.
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As I said, once you go through the trouble of finding the best watercolor brushes, you want to learn to take care of them well. Watch the video below for a few of my favorite tips for caring for your watercolor brushes (and a few things you absolutely shouldn't do if you want your brushes to last).
Synthetic brushes are generally more affordable and don’t involve harming animals, which is a win! They also tend to have better snap and are easier to care for. Natural hair brushes, like sable or squirrel, can hold more water and paint, but they’re pricier and require more maintenance.
Snap refers to how well a brush returns to its original shape after you bend it. A good snap means more control and precision in your strokes, which is important for more detailed watercolor painting.
Definitely! However, remember that some brushes are more versatile than others. Round brushes, for example, can be used for fine details and broad strokes, making them a great all-rounder.
Easy! Always rinse your brushes thoroughly after use, reshape the bristles, and let them dry flat or with the bristles pointing down, but make sure they’re not pressed or bent up against anything. Avoid leaving them in water for too long as it can damage the handle and bristles. I have a whole YouTube video on this here if you want more!
It depends! While high-quality brushes can make a difference, especially for detailed work, you don’t need to break the bank. There are plenty of excellent affordable options, like the Princeton Heritage series, which I personally love.
You can find these brushes at most art supply stores or online. I’ve included some links in this post to make it easier for you to shop for my top picks, but you can find everything I use and love over on Amazon.
Cling On! paintbrushes are the favorite brush among furniture painters. They offer superior application, resistant to shedding, and smooth flawless finishing. Featuring premium synthetic filaments, beech wood painted handle, fully locked in epoxy cement to eliminate shedding and a stainless-steel ferrule. Hand made in Holland, Cling On! is designed for all waterborne materials. Brushes are available in round, oval, flat, block, and angled styles.
Cling On Brush Care -Keep string intact on round and oval styles. They are designed to preserve brush shape and are durable enough to withstand brush cleaning. -Before using, let your brush “get its feet wet”. Allow the tips of the bristles to suspend in water. Wring out lightly before use or spin to remove most of the water. While painting, it may be beneficial to dip the tips in a little water to keep the paint from drying on the bristles and to produce the smoothest finish. -Cling Ons are designed to be used and stored wet. This feature contributes to the brush stroke-free and flawless finish. This also prevents the paint from drying on and damaging your bristles. The life expectancy of a Cling On brush surpasses other brushes for this reason. -When not in use, return the brush filaments to water (just the tips), do not saturate the head or handle of your brush in water. Allowing the bristles to rest on the bottom of the container can disfigure them, so use a Cling On brush holder or engineer your own. Start by using a jar with enough water to suspend the bottom of tips in, and a clip to hold the handle so that the tips keep from resting at the bottom of your container. -When you are finished painting you may rinse with water or just return your brush to your brush holder to let the tips suspend in water, the paint will just slide off of the bristles. A light rinse before use may be necessary and make sure to change out your water as needed. If necessary, soap and water cleanup is acceptable if the paint has been allowed to dry on your bristles.
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