When it comes to protecting your prized possessions—whether it’s your rugged RV, sleek sports car, or beloved boat—a vehicle cover is like armor for your investments. These often-overlooked accessories serve as your vehicle’s first line of defense against the elements, keeping them in pristine condition for your next adventure. But before you make a purchase, it’s essential to understand the factors involved in choosing the right vehicle cover. Let’s set sail on a journey to uncover the ultimate guide to vehicle covers!
For more information, please visit our website.
Why Every Vehicle Needs a Shield
Vehicles face a variety of threats from both natural and man-made sources, regardless of whether they are stored indoors or outdoors. A high-quality cover acts as a barrier, providing multiple layers of protection.
Weather Defense
- Sun Damage: Continuous exposure to ultraviolet (UV) rays can cause paint to fade, interiors to crack, and surfaces to weaken. UV-resistant covers block these harmful effects.
- Rain and Snow: Moisture can lead to rust, corrosion, and water damage. Waterproof or water-resistant covers prevent water from seeping through.
- Wind and Debris: High winds can carry dust, leaves, and small debris that can scratch or dent unprotected surfaces.
Environmental Protection
- Bird Droppings and Tree Sap: These substances can be acidic and difficult to clean, causing permanent damage if not addressed quickly.
- Dust and Dirt: Even vehicles stored in garages can accumulate dust, which can scratch paint when wiped away.
Security and Privacy
- Theft Deterrence: A covered vehicle is less visible and less likely to attract attention from thieves. Some covers even include lockable features for added security.
- Privacy: Covers obscure your vehicle’s condition and contents, making it less likely to draw unwanted attention.
Pest Prevention
- Insects and Rodents: Covers can keep pests from entering or nesting in your vehicle, especially during long-term storage.
What to Look for in a Vehicle Cover
Choosing the right vehicle cover is more than just picking one off the shelf—it’s about finding the perfect blend of protection, convenience, and value for your specific needs. With countless options available, understanding what you need to know before buying a vehicle cover will help you make an informed decision. Here’s a detailed guide to what you should look for in a vehicle cover:
Material Quality: The Foundation of Protection
The fabric of your vehicle cover is its most critical component. It determines how well the cover performs against the elements and how long it lasts.
- Durability: Look for materials that are resistant to tearing, abrasion, and wear over time. Multi-layered fabrics, such as polyester blends or high-density non-woven materials, often offer better strength and longevity. A durable cover ensures you don’t have to replace it frequently.
- Breathability: While waterproofing is important, breathability is equally essential to prevent moisture from being trapped underneath the cover. Trapped moisture can lead to rust, mold, and mildew, especially in humid environments. Materials with microporous membranes allow air circulation while keeping water out.
Fit and Size: Custom vs. Universal
The way a cover fits your vehicle is crucial for its effectiveness.
- Custom Fit: These custom covers are specifically designed for the make and model of your vehicle. They contour to its exact shape, providing comprehensive protection and minimizing the risk of gaps that could let in debris or water. While they tend to be more expensive, the snug fit ensures optimal coverage and performance.
- Universal Fit: Universal covers are a more budget-friendly option. They are designed to fit a range of vehicle sizes and shapes, but the looser fit can lead to areas of exposure, flapping in the wind, or difficulty staying secure during storms. These are best for short-term or indoor use.
Pro Tip: Always measure your vehicle, including any additional features like roof racks, mirrors, or antennas, to ensure the best fit.
Weather Resistance: Designed for the Elements
The climate where you store your vehicle plays a significant role in determining the type of cover you need.
- Waterproof vs. Water-Resistant: Waterproof covers are ideal for areas with heavy rain or snow. They offer a complete barrier against water penetration. However, ensure they are breathable to avoid condensation buildup.
Water-resistant covers provide some level of protection but may allow minimal water seepage under extreme conditions. These are better suited for mild climates.
- UV Resistance: In sunny areas, prolonged exposure to UV rays can fade paint and degrade materials. UV-resistant covers protect your vehicle from these damaging effects. Look for covers with reflective coatings for added sun protection.
Pro Tip: For extreme climates, consider covers with multi-layered protection that combines waterproofing, UV resistance, and durability.
Goto Tehu to know more.
Convenience is Key: Simplify Your Experience
A vehicle cover is only helpful if it’s easy to use. If it’s cumbersome or time-consuming to put on and take off, you might find yourself skipping it altogether.
- Lightweight Materials: Lightweight covers are easier to handle, especially for daily use. They’re also quicker to fold and store.
- Secure Features: Elastic hems, tie-down straps, and grommets are your best friends when it comes to how to keep vehicle covers from blowing off in the wind. These features including adjustable straps ensure a snug, secure fit, even during strong gusts, and prevent the cover from shifting or flapping.
- Access Features: Some covers include zippered sections or panels that let you access doors or storage areas without removing the entire cover. This is particularly useful for RVs or boats.
Budget: Balancing Cost and Quality
While it’s tempting to go for the cheapest option, investing in a high-quality cover often saves you money in the long run by reducing maintenance, repair, and replacement costs.
- Custom-Fit Covers: Although more expensive upfront, they provide better protection, reducing potential damage that might otherwise result in costly repairs.
- Affordable Alternatives: Universal-fit covers are suitable for those on a tighter budget or for temporary use, but they may not offer the same level of protection.
Pro Tip: Consider the value a cover adds in terms of preserving your vehicle’s condition and resale value. Spending a bit more on a durable, high-performance cover can pay off significantly over time.
Vehicle-Specific Cover Options
Every type of vehicle has unique needs when it comes to protection. Custom-fit covers for RVs and boats are tailored to your specific vehicle, ensuring maximum effectiveness and providing the best defense against the elements.
RV Covers: Protecting Your Home on Wheels
Best RV covers for winter protection are essential, as RVs endure more exposure to the elements than most vehicles, often parked outdoors for extended periods. A quality RV cover offers:
- UV and Water Resistance: Prevent sun damage and water intrusion that can weaken the exterior and roof.
- Ventilation Panels: Allow air to circulate and reduce the risk of mold and mildew.
- Custom Fits: Accommodate slide-outs, air conditioning units, and ladders.
Boat Covers: Shielding Your Aquatic Adventures
Boats face unique challenges due to prolonged exposure to water, salt, and sunlight. A proper boat cover should include:
- Marine-Grade Materials: Durable fabrics resistant to UV rays, mildew, and salt corrosion.
- Reinforced Seams: Ensure durability against high winds and heavy use.
- Tight Securing Options: Use tie-down straps and elastic hems to secure your boat cover during travel and even in storms.
- Boat Seat Covers: Don’t forget to protect your boat’s seats! These boat seat cover shield your seats from sun damage, spills, and dirt, keeping them looking fresh and new.
- Boat Center Console Covers: These specialized covers protect your boat’s console from the elements and preserve its condition and functionality for longer use.
Car Covers: Everyday Versatility
Cars are exposed to a variety of environments, from city streets to suburban driveways. Car covers are available in two main types:
- Indoor Covers: Designed to prevent dust accumulation and minor scratches in garages.
- Outdoor Covers: Engineered to protect your RVs and boats from sun, rain damage, and debris. Look for options with multi-layered materials for enhanced durability.
Motorcycle Covers: Compact but Crucial
Motorcycles may be smaller but require just as much protection. Key features include:
- Weatherproof Materials: Shield against rain, UV rays, and wind.
- Compact Portability: Lightweight covers for easy transport and storage.
- Heat-Resistant Panels: Allow coverage immediately after riding without risk of damage.
Maintenance Tips for Vehicle (Boat and RV) Covers
To keep your boat and RV covers in top condition, regular maintenance is key. Here are a few simple tips:
Contact us to discuss your requirements of Transport Vehicle Covers. Our experienced sales team can help you identify the options that best suit your needs.
- Clean Regularly: Wash your cover with mild soap and water to remove dirt, salt, and debris. Avoid harsh chemicals that can damage the fabric.
- Dry Thoroughly: Always let your cover dry completely before storing it to prevent mold or mildew buildup.
- Check for Tears: Inspect your cover periodically for any rips or damage. Repair small tears immediately to prevent further damage.
- Store Properly: When not in use, store your cover in a dry, cool place. Avoid folding it too tightly, as this can damage the material over time.
HI Paul - You're asking for a lot. I'm unaware of a commercially-made, off-the-shelf or custom, canoe cover that is fully waterproof, and I'm not sure what wind-proof means. The Bag Lady covers protect the outside of the canoe but they are completely open on the inside; they are advertised as neither waterproof nor water resistant. I have some custom-made covers that encapsulate the entire canoe, but I can't image that they are not waterproof either. One option would be to simply watch the weather forecast and use a weather radar app to choose a time when you can travel dry. A canoe cover will help shield the canoe from wind. I hate putting more plastic out there but another option that some of us sometimes use is to wrap the canoe thoroughly using a large roll of plastic cling wrap (found at Lowes, Home Depot, etc.). The wrapping needs to be tight and you should point the canoe on the vehicle so that the wrapping overlaps don't catch the wind.
Hope this helps - Michael
Michael, thank you, "shrink wrapping" it may be the way to go, much appreciated and I will keep you abreast! Paul
The Bag Lady covers protect the outside of the canoe but they are completely open on the inside; they are advertised as neither waterproof nor water resistant.
Actually, the Redleaf/Bag Lady covers are made with two different materials. The WeatherMax 3D fabric is stated to be water-resistant, whatever that may mean. However, like MGC, I'm not sure why there would be a concern about some rain on a canoe.
If canoes are securely affixed atop a vehicle, normal wind alone won't move or harm them even at highway speeds. I've probably car-topped and van-topped more than 20 canoes more than 100,000 miles over the last 50 years—up to five canoes at once—and none has ever been damaged. These have been composite, wood and plastic canoes, but admittedly none was a birch bark. Now if the wind kicks up dust or pebbles, or if you are driving behind vehicles on a dirt road, then airborne projectiles could ding the canoes. In such conditions, a cover might help reduce damage from such mini- or micro-impacts.
I've read that birch bark canoes carried on car-top racks should not be strapped over the hull as other canoes are. Instead, the thwarts should be attached to the racks. This might be difficult with a completely encircling canoe cover.
You should be very secure if you lash the thwarts to the the rack bars as securely as possible in as many places as possible; pad the bars; block lateral movement with commercially available or DIY
load stops on the rack bars; and block fore-aft movement with backward V snotter lines at the bow and stern, as shown in the following video.
I'm not sure why there would be a concern about some rain on a canoe
A birchbark canoe isn't a plastic tub than can be hosed and scrubbed out after being exposed to filthy road grime for hundreds of miles. The complex raw cedar interior will get saturated with all that gross road nastiness rather than gently speckled with pure little droplets of rainwater. Whether a fabric cover is water repellant or not is utterly pointless with respect to road grime when the entire interior of the canoe is open to the elements.
If this were me, I wouldn't be nearly as concerned about "micro-impacts" as about the buffeting effects of wind and about strap pressure on a birchbark hull. A birchbark is held together under tension with ribs pressure fitted to sheathing and the junction of the gunwales/bark, and if it's an old birchbark, parts may be loose and even coming apart. There was just such a canoe at Assembly this year, and it required considerable care to transport. Certainly never transport one like the red plastic canoe in the video above, with racks spanning only a small portion of the hull, and bow and stern tie-downs pulling on the ends of the hull - this is a recipe for disaster.
Give Gil's suggestion of a truck serious consideration, regardless of cost, especially if this is an historic or an old, loose birchbark canoe. If I were to attempt rooftop transport, I'd wrap it well, position racks to span 2/3 to 3/4 of the canoe's length, use gunwale brackets to secure the canoe laterally, make minimal holes in the covering so that thwarts could be strapped down to the racks, and strap over the top gently for added security (don't crank down those straps and risk damage from excess rib end pressure). And I'd time it for travel on a dry and cooler day (or night).
Hi Paul, Mike's suggestion of wrapping the canoe is plastic wrap may be your best option. I brought an old birch bark canoe back here to my home in Canada from Delaware, a 10 hour drive using this product and it traveled well with no issues. It had multiple broken pieces of bark and an end missing but the canoe arrived safely no less for the wear.
The other nice part of using the clear wrap is that the canoe is visible at the border. I almost had to pay taxes should the canoe have been declared an antiquity by border customs officials. But because they could see the canoe and I had a signed letter from the previous owner declaring its worth at less than $100 I was let off. Just a thought as you mentioned crossing the US - Canadian border. You don't want to have to unwrap and re-wrap a tarp for example each time.
Best of luck, Gary
Hello Gary, the canoe is new as below, Algonquin style. I am very grateful for everyone's advice. I plan to lash the thwarts as per Michael's advice and plastic wrap the canoe. I thought of also wrapping in moving blankets (duct taped) before strapping it down, maybe after US Customs. My understanding was that canoes are exempt from duty tax, do you have information on this? It is a Canada to USA trip. Thanks, Paul
I've never experienced road grime inside any canoe I've ever car topped, and if wind buffeting stresses are a structural concern, then any sort of car topping perhaps should be avoided whether or not a canoe cover is employed. The custom Bag Lady canoe cover I have for one of my canoes leaves very little of the canoe open underneath, but I never use the cover for car topping.
If you do go the car topping route, the points of agreement seem to be that: a plastic wrap is probably the least expensive, most waterproof covering; primary strap/rope attachment should be to the thwarts; the rack bars ideally should be spaced under the thwarts and fairly far apart; load stops or gunwale brackets should be used to prevent lateral movement; and any backup belly straps or bow/stern V lines should be gently tensioned.
To clarify, the purpose of the video was only to illustrate the optimal direction of bow/stern snotter V lines to prevent fore-aft shifting (\___/ rather than /___\ ). The video was not meant to illustrate the optimal bar spacing for a thwart-attached birch bark canoe or the amount of ratcheting force to put on the straps or lines, which obviously can differ from canoe to canoe and vehicle to vehicle. The down-pulling leverage of bow/stern lines, if used, can be reduced if they are attached to quarter thwarts or seats, if available.
If a canoe is fragile, like an ultra lightweight racing hull, a skin-on-frame—and I'll presume a birch bark—it can be car topped without bow/stern lines, and be properly immobilized, if the rack bar spacing is sufficiently wide and lateral load blocking is used. I traveled 10,000 miles over seven weeks in one trip around North America with my 22 foot, 30 lb. racing outrigger canoe in this manner, using foam cradles on the rack bars, without any problems.
Good luck. Show us some pictures of your final solution, and tell us for future reference how it worked and what, if anything, you'd do differently.
In , Ken Kelly brought his birchbark built by Steve Cayard to the WCHA Assembly, from which we took it to Maine for delivery to Steve who would be doing some refurbishing.
Ken supervised and took part in the loading of his birchbark.
The first problem we encountered was that our roof rack was not wide enough for Ken’s canoe and out 16’ OT Ideal. We improvised, duct-taping long-enough 2x4s to the too-short cross bars.
Ken supervised and took part in the loading of his birchbark.
The birchbark was completely wrapped in a white fabric tube, cotton, I think, which was closed by knots at each end. The purpose was to protect against sand, dirt, road debris, and perhaps light rain. I don't recall that we considered heat an issue -- summers in New England are usually not too hot.
We placed the kind of foam pads that are sometimes used for roof-topping canoes and small boats between the canoe gunwales and the 2x4s, compressing the foam. We strapped each canoe with two straps to the rack cross-bars, running the straps through foam tubes usually used to insulate pipes. And we also ran a long strap over both canoes through the car, a belt-and-suspenders measure to deal with the unlikely event of a rack failure.
In my more than 50 years of car-topping many kinds of canoes over thousands of miles of roads ranging from dirt trails to interstate highways, I have found that wind buffeting is the chief (though far from the only) problem that must be dealt with. The best way to deal with buffeting is by using side load brackets on the cross bars, such as these from Yakima.
https://yakima.com/products/single-...b8wTmocNEtslKO9f9QG7RXx-Ooj2u6qKRKkrhGDrwtJdo Other rack systems have similar items. We did not have such brackets at the time, but I believe that compressing the foam blocks did a great deal to immobilize the canoe against buffeting.
I drove less vigorously that I usually would, but nonetheless at highway speeds over 350 miles, some interstate and mostly windy/twisty local highways (US 2 and US5) on the 8 hour trip between the Adirondacks and the middle of Maine, including the Lake Champlain ferry.
Both canoes arrived in Maine safe and sound, and the birchbark was delivered to Steve Cayard in the same condition it left New York.
Ken’s canoe was in generally sound condition. If your canoe is also in generally sound condition, I think you can readily car-top, taking steps to simply wrap the canoe, and to deal with the fact that it cannot be handled as roughly, or tied down quite so firmly, as an ordinary wood-canvas or plastic canoe. But if generally sound, birchbarks are surprisingly strong and durable. The birchbark canoe mentioned above that was auctioned at the past summer’s Assembly was, in fact, a falling-apart wreck. It arrived in a custom crate on a truck, and was hauled away the same way. I suspect your canoe does not need anything like that.
Pad the point at which gunwales sit on crossbars and if possible, also use load stop brackets. Tied down firmly, but don’t overdo it as can be done with other kinds of construction. Wrap it against road debris. And if the canoe allows, tie bow and stern to the front and rear of the car. It was not possible to do this with Ken’s 16’ canoe, and we managed non-the-less. You should have less of a problem with your 13’ canoe if you also cannot tie bow and stern down.
Good luck getting, and using, your birchbark, and let us know what you decided to do.
Greg
In , Ken Kelly brought his birchbark built by Steve Cayard to the WCHA Assembly, from which we took it to Maine for delivery to Steve who would be doing some refurbishing.
Ken supervised and took part in the loading of his birchbark.
The first problem we encountered was that our roof rack was not wide enough for Ken’s canoe and out 16’ OT Ideal. We improvised, duct-taping long-enough 2x4s to the too-short cross bars.
Ken supervised and took part in the loading of his birchbark.
The birchbark was completely wrapped in a white fabric tube, cotton, I think, which was closed by knots at each end. The purpose was to protect against sand, dirt, road debris, and perhaps light rain. I don't recall that we considered heat an issue -- summers in New England are usually not too hot.
View attachment View attachment
We placed the kind of foam pads that are sometimes used for roof-topping canoes and small boats between the canoe gunwales and the 2x4s, compressing the foam. We strapped each canoe with two straps to the rack cross-bars, running the straps through foam tubes usually used to insulate pipes. And we also ran a long strap over both canoes through the car, a belt-and-suspenders measure to deal with the unlikely event of a rack failure.
View attachment
In my more than 50 years of car-topping many kinds of canoes over thousands of miles of roads ranging from dirt trails to interstate highways, I have found that wind buffeting is the chief (though far from the only) problem that must be dealt with. The best way to deal with buffeting is by using side load brackets on the cross bars, such as these from Yakima.
View attachment https://yakima.com/products/single-...b8wTmocNEtslKO9f9QG7RXx-Ooj2u6qKRKkrhGDrwtJdo Other rack systems have similar items. We did not have such brackets at the time, but I believe that compressing the foam blocks did a great deal to immobilize the canoe against buffeting.
I drove less vigorously that I usually would, but nonetheless at highway speeds over 350 miles, some interstate and mostly windy/twisty local highways (US 2 and US5) on the 8 hour trip between the Adirondacks and the middle of Maine, including the Lake Champlain ferry.
View attachment
Both canoes arrived in Maine safe and sound, and the birchbark was delivered to Steve Cayard in the same condition it left New York.
Ken’s canoe was in generally sound condition. If your canoe is also in generally sound condition, I think you can readily car-top, taking steps to simply wrap the canoe, and to deal with the fact that it cannot be handled as roughly, or tied down quite so firmly, as an ordinary wood-canvas or plastic canoe. But if generally sound, birchbarks are surprisingly strong and durable. The birchbark canoe mentioned above that was auctioned at the past summer’s Assembly was, in fact, a falling-apart wreck. It arrived in a custom crate on a truck, and was hauled away the same way. I suspect your canoe does not need anything like that.
Pad the point at which gunwales sit on crossbars and if possible, also use load stop brackets. Tied down firmly, but don’t overdo it as can be done with other kinds of construction. Wrap it against road debris. And if the canoe allows, tie bow and stern to the front and rear of the car. It was not possible to do this with Ken’s 16’ canoe, and we managed non-the-less. You should have less of a problem with your 13’ canoe if you also cannot tie bow and stern down.
Good luck getting, and using, your birchbark, and let us know what you decided to do.
Greg
Thank you Greg, great advice and I will follow your and other recommendations. I will report in on the result!
All Comments ( 0 )