How to Choose adhesive tip applicator?

I use The Glue Looper to apply CA. Multiple tip sizes are provided. They fit into a standard Exacto/Excel knife handle. Dribble some CA onto a scrap surface (I use a little bit of metal sheet, which can be cleaned), dip the loop into the CA and then apply to the model, Cleaning the applicator is readily done by burning the dried and hardened CA off with a small flame (I use our gas cooktop). I've seen other variations on this applicator theme.

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You could also use a broken sewing needle eye. Hold the very tip of the eye in pliers and the rest of the needle with your hand in work gloves. Bend the needle and it should snap cleanly in the eye where it was held by the pliers. The resulting "Y" shape will also hold CA drops. You can mount the needle in a spare pin vise or stick it into a wooden dowel. IIRC, somebody sells a tool that appears to be little more than such a needle mounted in a handle. Clean dried CA as above.

I also use Tamiya Thin. Dragging the brush on the bottle edge removes excess glue, but it's still a broad tip. I haven't seen any real issues with that broad tip on with bare plastic--just don't touch the excess until thoroughly dry. If your paw does touch the plastic, leave it alone until it dries. You should be able to clean up most of the mess with a 6-cut file once it has thoroughly dried. I have also learned that if I accidentally dribble Tamiya Thin on plastic to just leave it alone. Once dry, it will disappear under primer and paint.

In any event, you might try a fine paint brush to apply Tamiya Thin with finer placement and control.

HTH

-- 

dnl

I use Mek Pak which I find far superior to Tamiya extra thin.

Most plastic glueing is done with the thickest tube glue I can get, currently working my way through a 40 tube box of old Airfix polystyrene cement, a fine glue with some body to it unlike the currently available tube glues that are far too runny for my needs

Cyanoacrylate is the work of the devil and an adhesive abomination which I will not use. I use 5 minute epoxy for etch along with PVA wood glue. I also have UHU glue which is very useful and great for clear parts where Mek Pak is not appropriate such as landing/recognition lights.

For application I use old sable paint brushes, old airbrush needles, acupuncture needles and the ubiquitous cocktail sticks

Hi, is it Frank?

I use exactly the same as you. Tamiya Extra Thin, Contacta (rarely gets used), thin CA, gel CA. I think the trick is how you apply it.

For CA, I squeeze a little out on a piece of glossy card cut from some disused packaging. I have plenty of these pre-cut cards on the work bench as I am always mixing CA/talc as a micro-filler and use my CA's regularly.  I apply the liquid CA with some 0.25 copper wire leaving the insulation on for a finger grip. Dip the wire into the small pool of CA and then apply where you want. Any build up of dried CA on the wire end I cut off. Sometimes I let the dried CA build a fraction if I want to hold a larger drop. I haven't found the need for a loop. Sometimes I just kink the end for larger volumes.  I use Loctite Super Attack "The Original". I really like its capillary action and lack of staining. Wicks in nicely. For gel CA I use a toothpick, sometimes sharpen the point, sometimes I also use a wire or a needle point. Currently using Loctite Super Attack "Power Flex" Gel.

COTISEN contains other products and information you need, so please check it out.

Often I will use a combination of Tamiya Extra Thin and CA. For example, the 1/48 Eduard Bf-110 has some very fine plastic undercarriage parts. I achieved initial hold with Gel CA then wicked in some Tamiya Extra Thin. 

If I am post gluing a painted piece with Tamiya Extra Thin I unload the Tamiya brush (as @dnl42 has said) to hold just enough and touch the joint. Let the capillary action do the rest. Usually this is all you need. I also always have a hairdryer at hand if I over do it and need to rapidly evaporate the excess. If your cap brush is too large use a fine paint brush. I am surprised by the lack of paint damage. I try to ensure there is limited paint on the joined surfaces.

General comment for CA and PE - always try to have the PE fully shaped for the location prior to fixing, seek to minimise tension and spring. 

If I have something fine that may get knocked or needs to take some tension I will usually drill and wire even tiniest pieces - good practice irrespective of the adhesive.

I will also use PVA glue for temporary holds such as canopy positioning for painting. Scary I know, but I use Tamiya Extra Thin and CA for fixing canopies.

I keep gravitating back to this core set of adhesives and they do the bulk of what I do - aircraft and AFV. Like many in the hobby I have a drawer full of other options sitting there partly used/unused. Yet, everyone has their own set of favourites that suits their technique. What you have does work for me.

Ray

Applying super glue doesn’t have to end with you scraping off excess glue everywhere! In fact, due to the number of glue applicators available today, using super glue is easy and mess-free.

Nowadays, you can buy glue applicators in all shapes and sizes. From ultra-fine tip glue applicators, to brush on glue applicators to long-necked glue applicators, there’s an applicator for every job. What’s more, many super glues now have self-piercing caps and lids that lock into place. Loctite also offers a range of ultra-fine tip super glue applicators designed for the most precise applications.

There are a number of tricks for getting the most out of your glue. Firstly, keeping air out of the bottle is essential for making your glue last longer. Another important tip is to keep glue out of the applicator tips as best you can – this will mean that your glue applicator doesn’t get clogged up. Here’s how to do keep your glue applicators clog-free.

Once you’ve finished applying your super glue…

1. Sit the bottle in an upright position and tap the bottom on the table. This will allow any glue left in the applicator to drop back into the bottle.
2. Keeping the bottle upright, squeeze it carefully to make sure that no more glue comes out of the applicator. The trick here is the make sure that you don’t squeeze the bottle too hard.
3. Clean the tip of the glue applicator with paper towel dipped in acetone. Alternatively, use Loctite Glue Remover.
4. Screw the lid back on tightly and store the glue in an upright position in a cool, dry place.
   

Loctite has a huge range of different super glues with different applicators, so you can choose the right glue and applicator for every project. Here, we’ll give you a quick run-down of the different super glue applicators so you can make your next repair with minimal mess.

You may already know Loctite’s super glues, but did you know that Loctite’s Super Glue Liquid Precision and Loctite’s Super Glue Liquid Precision Max come in handy bottles with extra-long nozzles designed for dispensing super glue with absolute precision? Both feature perfect glue applicators for making accurate repairs in hard to reach places. And, if you’re in need of an easy but super effective and mess-free glue applicator, give Loctite’s Super Glue Creative Pen a try. This glue applicator is pressure sensitive and has a non-dripping system, meaning that you can use it just like a pen and apply super glue quickly and cleanly to all kinds of surfaces.

Alternatively, if you need your super glue to cover a wider area, you should check out Loctite’s Super Glue Liquid Brush On. As the name suggests, this glue comes with a handy brush-on glue applicator for easy, mess-free applications.

If you want to learn more, please visit our website adhesive tip applicator.