How to identify Genuine Bosch Parts: a step-by-step guide

How to identify Genuine Bosch Parts: a step-by-step guide

You might have heard stories of unscrupulous sellers passing off imitation parts as genuine Bosch parts. Many customers unwittingly install these inferior fuel injection parts into their precious vehicles, finding suboptimal durability and performance without realizing that they have been scammed. Consequently, unnecessary engine repairs and costly downtime may even result. As such, we have prepared this step-by-step guide on how to identify genuine Bosch parts, aiming to educate the consumer on how to ensure that they are getting what they paid for.

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At a superficial level, it may be difficult to tell the difference between genuine vs imitation Bosch parts. Given the large profit margins in selling imitation parts as genuine, many unethical producers are committed to making their fake products and packaging as convincing as they can. However while they may be able to replicate that exact shade of Bosch blue in the packaging, it is much harder to replicate the superior Bosch quality. Frankly, there are a lot of imitation parts in the market and it is important to be aware and vigilant, thus highlighting the importance of being able to tell the difference between genuine vs fake Bosch parts.

WHY USE GENUINE BOSCH PARTS?

Bosch parts are standard equipment on many diesel engines today and they are the world’s leading supplier of diesel fuel injection systems. Fuel injection parts are highly precise pieces of equipment and a slight misalignment or an imprecise fit may lead to leakages or other costly damages. With authentic products by Bosch, each piece is manufactured to original equipment specifications and you can be confident that you are receiving a quality product.

Bosch’s technology and products are engineered for lasting performance. Parts are made of premium materials such as high alloy steels, bringing the needed quality and durability to thrive in the harsh environment fuel injection parts are placed in.

Genuine Bosch parts are recommended to achieve optimal performance, reliability, and durability. As a leader in original equipment fuel injection parts, genuine Bosch parts are manufactured to the most exacting standards to give you a peace of mind.

HOW TO IDENTIFY GENUINE BOSCH PARTS?

Many people seek to buy authentic Bosch products for the quality advantages they offer. It is thus important to know how to identify genuine Bosch parts as there are shops out there brazenly passing off imitation parts as genuine. Let us share with you some simple steps on how to identify genuine Bosch parts without breaking a sweat.

Step 1: Check the Bosch Secure Code Label

The Bosch Secure Code Label uses a hologram technology that is extremely difficult to copy. The 18-digit Bosch Secure Code is unique for every product and the last 6 characters are repeated individually in the hologram.

Step 2: Confirming the authenticity of the code

To verify whether the product is genuine, first check the holographic properties of the Bosch Secure Code Label. For genuine Bosch products, the secure code and logo on the Bosch Secure Code Label should glimmer in rainbow colours when it is exposed to direct light. In indirect light however, only black and silvery structures can be seen.

Step 3: Visit www.protect.bosch.com to identify authenticity

Simply visit the above website link and enter the Bosch Secure Code for verification. Kindly note that the entry must be in uppercase letters without any spaces. Please visit the link above for more detailed information on identifying the authenticity of Bosch products.

For more bosch parts distributorinformation, please contact us. We will provide professional answers.

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For genuine Bosch parts, you will find a congratulatory message similar to that as seen below upon keying in Bosch’s authentication platform the appropriate security code.

INVEST IN GENUINE BOSCH AUTOMOTIVE PARTS

Support Bosch’s initiative against brand piracy and protect your vehicle from imitation automotive parts. Bosch’s online authenticator platform is to be used in tandem with the Bosch hologram verification. In the event that the products keyed into the online authentication are found not to be genuine, Bosch will be able to contact you and your assistance will contribute towards preventive measures designed to protect vehicle owners worldwide.

While we have covered some simple steps to help you identify genuine Bosch parts, it is unfortunate that counterfeiters are getting increasingly skilled and some are even able to replicate secure labels that are supposedly difficult to copy. We all know the old adage “you get what you pay for”. When you see a deal that seems “too good to be true”, it very likely is.

For a peace of mind, buy only from reputable suppliers of genuine fuel injection parts. Get genuine Bosch parts from us at Sealand Turbo-Diesel Asia. Sealand Turbo-Diesel Asia is an authorised wholesaler for Bosch with 50 years of industry experience in the fuel injection market.

Sealand Turbo-Diesel Asia is committed to genuine. We have earned a reputation in the industry for our commitment to selling only genuine parts. By buying from us, you can have the peace of mind knowing that you are getting what you paid for and that the parts you receive are designed to bring out the optimal performance of your vehicle, allowing them to operate better and last longer.

If you’re looking for common rail, fuel injection, or turbochargers, feel free to contact us and our experienced sales teams will be most happy to assist you.

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DISCLAIMER: This blog provides general information and should not be taken as technical advice. The information presented may not be complete or up to date. As every situation is unique, you should always consult a trained diesel fuel injection professional to advise specifically on your case.

Blog posts may be written by guest writers and other content creators. Opinions and information presented do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of Sealand Turbo-Diesel Asia and the company makes no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied.

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I'm kind of crazy, but I find distributors and mainly Bosch tune up parts being interesting.. so instead of collecting stamps or something else I've collecting them for the past 10 years or so. Thought of sharing this in a thread instead of polluting other threads.

Original parts



I'm going to go in to more details, I start with the rotors, but more will come..

ROTORS:

First thing to know about rotors is that there can be basicly 4 different kind of rotors that fit the same distributor. A combinations of with or without resistor and for or for not with use of dust protection cap.

This is also whats differs the "022" and "023" distributor, that the last one came with a dust protection cap () and rotor () from the factory.

Below are the 4 different kinds of rotors for cast iron distributors (incl br18 for 356). The old Bosch part number (Up to -63/64) and new Bosch part number for the same rotor. All this will fit a 022 cast iron distributor.

The difference with the rotor for dust cap and no dust cap is in the shaft. The dust cap rotor have a groove that fits with dust cap. If you don't have a dust cap you can use both types.


On early rotors it was pretty obvious if they had a resistor, later rotors had epoxi over both the resistor or the solid brass.
Design of rotors going from 50's top, 60's to 70's and modern.

The most common modern replacement rotor for the cast iron distributors is the . It is a resistor rotor, that can be used with dust cap. It is most like the old in spec.



The aluminum distributors 061 and 031 originally came with the rotor. It's a resistor rotor, for dust cap. But I don't know if they always came with a dust cap or if it was just simplier to list one rotor for all? Without dust cap one can also use . Later the 107 rotor was replaced with the rotor. It don't fit with the old dust cap used with the 107.

(There was also a rotor that was without resistor, but I'm not 100% it can be used).



The 215 could however also be used with a dust cap. It was just a more simple later design were the shaft just fitted down the hole in the dust cap. Below a 215 rotor with dust cap and a 107 rotor with dust cap (from a cast iroy distributor but the design is the same, later caps were plastic though).



The 215 dust cap () is a modern generic type, but could be fitted to a 912 distributor if a small tab is removed.



So a list of rotors for cast iron (br18, 022) you can use any of the previous listed .. 070, 072, 028, 030 or modern replacement 088. For aluminium (061, 031) 107, 074 or modern replacement 215.

Here is a cross reference for what you usually can find today.

BOSCH ...

..088 (04 008), BERU EVL 4/6-Z ()
..070, BERU EVL 027 ()

ALUMINUM
..107 (04 012), BERU EVL 030 ()
..074 (04 004), BERU EVL 4/6-0 ()
..215 (04 033), BERU EVL 029 ()

Beru top and Bosch below:

CAPs:

For cast iron distributors (022, br18) the original cap was , a dark brown phenolic German made cap same as the old part number ZVS75Z6. In modern time it was produced in Brazil, but in black color and had the old part number (ZVS..) on it and sold under order number . An other modern replacement option is the () cap. A brown-red polyester cap.

Below a NOS German ZVS75Z6 () brown cap and a "new" Brazilian ZVS75Z6 () cap.


There are many Bosch caps with almost the same fit. The difference can be small. For example for the aluminum distributors (061, 031): After the short lived cap for the first year of 061 it was replaced by the cap. This is a brown-red polyester cap that is lacquered on the inside (all polyester caps are that) for better moist and dirt protection. It was in turn later replaced by the cap. This is a brown-red polyester cap lacquered on both the inside and outside, for repelling moist and dirt better even on the outside.

Below are from the left a phenolic 107 cap, a lacquered in- and outside 059 cap and a lacquered inside 145 cap. (All NOS, modern polyester caps are a bit more orange in tone).



The main differece between a 022 cast iron cap and a 061/031 aluminum cap is that the former has a half circle cut out for the condenser/points connection. You can therefor use a cast iron cap (107, 058) on a aluminum distributor, but not the oposit if you don't cut/file out a notch in the cap (059, 145).

Some cross reference to modern Beru caps (Good quality and still made in Germany). This is not necessary the cross reference you will find searching but to me its the "best".

BOSH ..

..107 (), BERU VK101 ()
..058 (), BERU VK154 ()

ALUMINUM (can also use the above)
..175
..145
..059 (), BERU VK105 ()
Points part 1: (cast iron distributors)

The original points for all cast iron distributors in Porsche 356 and 912 was Bosch (01 001) or the older Bosch part number "ZKT 48 sort 1". This early set (pre 912) has a white/clear pivot pin bushing.

Even older 50's sets had a phenolic bushing



Porsche 356 distributor parts (for 912 see first post).



The () was also the same points used in vw 25/36 hp centrifugal (only) cast iron distributors. And was even recomended by bosch for early 911.




For 356/912 no other points set was recommended. The 911 though first got the (ZKT 48 sort 2) points that later was replaced with the (01 016) with a stronger spring.

Early 911:


Below early "hard pack", later "blister pack" and (have only seen them in hard pack, probably they were NLA when they started with blister packs).



The and (and ) points fits the exact same way. The fixed breaker part has the same individual part number but the breaker arm has a different part number. It's easy to tell them apart as ..001 has "11" stamped on the arm.



I've tried to meassure the spring tension and get some higher value on the ..001 but this might be due to messuring error as the spring steel has the same thickness (0.40mm) on both ..000 and ..001.



To be honest I'm not 100% sure what the difference is? The only thing I've manage to find is that the steel in the arm itself is slightly thicker on the ..001 than the ..000. This might be it and that it by mass can handle higher rpm without bouncing or flex. About the same (or slightly higher) spring tension as ..000 should also not wear out the rubbing block or cam faster.



So you can use
(01 001) if you want stock 356/912 points. Or use the 911 points..
for a bit more rew friendly points or
(01 016) for high rew/ even stronger spring.

Now if you want a easy to find replacement you can use Bremi or Beru KS039. This is also what's sold under Porsche part numbers by most vendors. Note that both of this two replaces all the Bosch types 000, 001, 060 and more, but they are originally equal to 000 () points. The spring steel is the same thickness as 000/001. Personally I prefere NOS Bosch. They have phenolic fiber rubbing block and a mutch nicer pivot bushing that is "cast in" the arm. And if you go hunt for NOS points and want made in Germany points, here are some small tips.

The blister packs do have a "made in.." print. On older sets the print is behind the points and can be hard to see in a photo (bottom 2 sets). On later (but still old) sets the print is on the side but is in really fine print (circle in top set). Some NOS points for sale also have this part "mysterious" cut away..

But you can tell from the part number where it's made. Old german sets only have the part number "" for example. Made in Spain have "-850", -850 being code for manufacturing place. The "-740", is made in Brazil as -740 is a Brazilian manufacturing place. Later German parts can also have manufacturing code, -040 is one of I'm not misstaken and you can see another German code in Glenns photos of condensers.

Now old NOS made in Spain and Brazil sets are still great quality, but German is German.

Glenns photo with the 3 blister pack points is a great example of different manufacturing place. (probably on purpose?!)

Can you spot where they are made? Right to left. Points part 2: Aluminum distributors

031 distributor

First original points for 031 was , but was later replaced by (01 026).

The old NOS German 081 points only have "Ford" recommendation in the back, probably as the 065 points were still in use for 912. On later NOS Spain points the recommendation included 912 (and 911).

The 081 points are "right hand points". There are a lot of right hand points that accually fit the same, but may differ in rubbing block thickness and material, spring tension etc. To compare the 081 (01 026) to the 044 (01 011) "vw" points for example: they fit exactly the same, but the 081 has a 2.5mm phenolic fibre rubbing block and the 044 2.0mm, the spring is 0.5mm thick on 081 and 0.4mm on the 044. Spring tension (meassured kind of rough) is slightly over 1kg when points open on the 081 and 0.85kg on the 044.

The spring tension and thickness on the 081 is about the same as the 009/050 distributor "tiger stripe" points. The tiger stripe points wire is about 1cm longer than 081 and 044, this can cause problems with fittment but otherwise you should be able to use the two in place of one another.

Below, from the left: tiger stripe, 081, 044 and 116 (Early watercooled vw points)

Now why all this information? Well originally there was plenty of Bosch points with the same fittment but with slight difference for different cars. This can be good and keep in mind when you today go and buy a set of points with a porsche part number, but maybe of another brand, Beru for an example. The "Porsche" cross reference for Beru is the KS700 points. This is a "generic" replacement for alot of different Bosch points, including 044, 065 and 081 bit it has a spring the same thickness and about the same tension as the 044, vw points. So you might as well use any set of NOS Bosch points. Bit I think think the 081 is still availible? (I have about 100pcs NOS German).



061 distributor

Original points for it was . I'm sorry but I don't have any of them to show, but it was "left hand points". I would assume the difference in spring tension/thickness and rubbing block was the same as the 081. I think the 061 is NLA? The Beru set of points that carries the Porsche part number now is KS650. This is like the KS700 a generic set of points that have a 0.40mm spring and tension like the 044. The rubbing block is solid plastic. For Beru the eventual last letter in the part number gives more information on the version of points. No letter is "stock", "P" is polyamide rubbing block (better wear protection), "S" that it comes with a fixed adjustment screw, and "V" for ventilated points.

Below is a comparison of a NEW beru KS650 (middle), NOS Bosch (left) and (right). The 113 has a polyamide rubbing block (cross to Beru KS650P), the KS650 a plastic rubbing block and the 062 a phenolic rubbing block. Spring tension and thickness is about the same on KS650 and 062. The 062 differs that it has a lock washer on the pivot pin and bushing (Beru equalent was KS445). They all fit the same however.



With this said, if you don't find a NOS Bosch , you might as well try some other NOS bosch set of points because if you use an aftermarket set or Beru you have anyhow alter the "original" spring tension. Look at the cross reference for Beru KS650 (P and S) in the above list). If anyone would like to try the 062 set in the pictures I will post it for free (I don't have any 061 distributor) what I like about it is the lock washer and phenolic rubbing block. A hint when looking for points might be to see what other cars they were used for. Below usage for 062.