Product Information
What materials are your crucibles made of?
Where are your crucibles manufactured?
If you want to learn more, please visit our website Hitfar.
Product Recommendations
What type of crucibles does Molten Metal Systems recommend for ZnO production?
What type of crucibles can be used for melting in induction furnaces?
What crucibles are recommended for different applications (Al, Cu, Zn, Precious Metals, etc)?
Can I re-use the stand (pedestal, base block) after the crucible has been removed?
For which patterns can we get reinforced crucibles?
May I use Excel E in gas furnace?
May I use standard Excel stand with Excel E crucible or the opposite?
What is the primary difference between Excel brand and Omnimelt brand?
Can I use a crucible without a stand (pedestal, base block)?
What kind of packing is used to protect your crucible during transportation?
Can I use the same brand/type of crucible in gas burner furnaces as with an oil burner furnace?
Can I fill a cracked or damaged crucible with plastic (Al2O3 + P2O5) and continue my work?
What are the advantages and disadvantages of SiC vs. CG? Why would I choose one over the other?
I have heard that Molten Metal Systems is the only global crucible manufacturer that uses all three crucible forming techniques. Why is this and why does this set Molten Metal Systems apart from the competition?
Performance Issues
What is a typical crucible life time?
How can I improve my crucible life and performance?
How I can eliminate problems with flux attack and lengthen crucible life time?
How I can prevent bottom cracking?
How I can prevent crucible early oxidation resulting in crucible cracks on top edge?
Why are there different preheating procedures for different crucibles and does it really matter?
If I don’t clean the crucible regularly, what can happen? How often do I need to clean the crucible?
How long is the pre heat for first use ? Can I use it for gas or oil fired burners?
How long is the first heat for precious metals if I use a gas fired burner or an oil fired burner?
What is the crucible installation procedure for bale out and tilting furnaces?
Foundry Products
Do you have only one size of impeller on your degassing rotor?
What is the normal nitrogen flow for degassing rotors and degassing tubes?
What materials are your crucibles made of?
Molten Metal Systems crucibles are manufactured using carefully selected materials designed to precisely match the crucible’s characteristics and operational performance to each customer’s metal melting, holding or transfer application. A foundry crucible contains 30-50% by weight of flake graphite, depending on the properties required. Naturally occurring graphite is normally used. The carbon content of graphite imparts high thermal conductivity and non-wettability and, coupled with its plate-like layered matrix structure, provides high thermal shock resistance. This is critical to foundry applications as temperatures can change by several hundred degrees in seconds. In addition, crucibles will normally contain 10-50% silicon carbide – depending on the desired properties. Unlike graphite, silicon carbide is synthetic, manufactured from silica sand. This material provides excellent resistance to elevated temperature erosion and to chemical corrosion. It also imparts thermal conductivity. Choosing the best grain size and structure is important for optimizing the overall microstructure to match the product to specific applications. There are two types of bonding systems used in crucibles. Tar/resin produces carbon bonds and the other - clay, produces ceramic bonds following heat treatment. >>Top
Where are your crucibles manufactured?
Molten Metal Systems crucibles are manufactured in several plants strategically located around the world. Our facilities can be found in Germany, Brazil, India and China. >>Top
Product Recommendations
What type of crucibles does Molten Metal Systems recommend for ZnO production?
There are several types of crucibles that we can recommended for this application including our ISO-pressed crucibles made from our Syncarb Z2 material, a specially designed mix of clay graphite. Our Syncarb Z2 products have the optimized shape and the high density required for this application. It is approved and used by many Zinc Oxide producer all over the world. Contact your Molten Metal Systems representative to get the right crucible for your application. >>Top
What type of crucibles can be used for melting in induction furnaces?
Molten Metal Systems offers many options for melting in induction furnaces. In order to offer the correct product for your application you will need to provide: a) the furnace working frequency in Hz, b) the furnace operating power in kW, c) the metal to be melted and d) the metal melting temperature. With this information we can recommend right product for the application. >>Top
What crucibles are recommended for different applications (Al, Cu, Zn, Precious Metals, etc)?
Molten Metal Systems provides solutions for most melting requirements. The specific crucible for a particular application depends upon several factors including furnace type, metal to be melted, and other applications variables. In order to correctly identify the best crucible for your application please contact one of our sales people in your region. >>Top
Can I re-use the stand (pedestal, base block) after the crucible has been removed?
Molten Metal Systems strongly recommends that a new stand be used whenever replacing the crucible. >>Top
For which patterns can we get reinforced crucibles?
The most common type of crucible that can be reinforced is the roller formed type. The process for manufacturing reinforced wall crucibles is less costly for roller formed crucibles. >>Top
May I use Excel E in gas furnace?
Excel E can be used in gas furnaces when melting or holding Aluminum but only when a light (or no) flux is used. Excel E can also be used in a gas furnace for Zinc Oxide production. >>Top
May I use standard Excel stand with Excel E crucible or the opposite?
Using a standard Excel stand (pedestal, base block) with an Excel E crucible is not recommended. >>Top
What is the primary difference between Excel brand and Omnimelt brand?
The mixture of raw materials that are used to produce the products are different for the two products. >>Top
Can I use a crucible without a stand (pedestal, base block)?
A crucible can be used without a stand (pedestal, base block) in an induction furnace. A stand (pedestal, base block) must be used in all other types of furnaces. >>Top
What kind of packing is used to protect your crucible during transportation?
Molten Metal Systems uses a variety of packing materials to ensure its products are protected in the best possible way for their transportation to customers. Smaller crucibles are packed in cardboard box with packing material insulation to provide added protection. Larger crucibles are packed using wood pallets and strapping to ensure they do not move during shipping. >>Top
Can I use the same brand/type of crucible in gas burner furnaces as with an oil burner furnace?
Typically you can use the same type/brand of crucible in a gas burner furnace as you can in an oil burner furnace. >>Top
Can I fill a cracked or damaged crucible with plastic (Al2O3 + P2O5) and continue my work?
Molten Metal Systems does not recommend that any cracked or damaged crucible be repaired. Morgan MMS highly recommends that damaged or cracked crucibles be taken out of service immediately for safety reasons. >>Top
What are the advantages and disadvantages of SiC vs. CG? Why would I choose one over the other?
The advantages of a given product over another depends primarily on the working temperatures and heating cycles of the application. SiC products versus rib formed clay graphite will typically have better thermal conductivity. SiC versus isotatic pressed clay graphite will have better thermal shock resistance. >>Top
I have heard that Molten Metal Systems is the only global crucible manufacturer that uses all three crucible forming techniques. Why is this and why does this set Molten Metal Systems apart from the competition?
Molten Metal Systems has a long history in the crucible industry. Over the years it has experimented and perfected manufacturing techniques that are critical to the production of high quality and top performing crucibles. The three forming techniques that Molten Metal Systems has perfected are roller forming, rib forming and ISO static pressing. Each of these methods are used to provide our customers with the quality products manufactured by us. >>Top
Performance Issues
What is a typical crucible life time?
Each application is different. Crucible life depends on a number of variables including furnace type, metal melted, flux usage, operator practices, etc. To get the optimal life out of your crucible, use a Molten Metal Systems crucible recommended by your local sales person. >>Top
How can I improve my crucible life and performance?
There are several key activities that will help to ensure you optimize your crucible life and performance. While the product quality built into a crucible by its manufacturer is one key to long service life, another key is held by metal casters themselves. That key is providing the best possible crucible care on the job. Choosing the right crucible, handling your crucible with care and proper installation will make an important contribution to crucible service life. In addition, proper preheating of the crucible before first use and caring for your crucible during normal operations will help to make the crucible last as it was designed*.
By working closely with your Molten Metal Systems representative to select the right crucible for your melting, holding or metal transfer operation you will be eliminating potential applications issues. Upon receipt of your crucible, be sure to inspect it carefully and handle it with care when moving it to storage or to your furnace. Install it properly according the Molten Metal Systems installation procedures. Preheat it according to the Molten Metal Systems guidelines. Operate it within its design parameters. Protect it from physical and thermal damage. And replace it immediately when it is damaged or worn. Follow these rules and your crucibles will provide excellent service life, operational efficiencies and significant economies.
*Refer to the Molten Metal Systems installation and heating procedures when first installing and initially using your crucible. Refer to the article on our website entitled “Key Steps To Maximizing Your Crucible’s Service Life” to find tips and guidelines for getting the most performance out of your crucible. >>Top
How I can eliminate problems with flux attack and lengthen crucible life time?
Use only limited amounts of flux at the specified temperatures and for limited time. First, make sure that the metal has been completely melted. Next add flux and mix it thoroughly with the metal. Make sure to clean all the ash and oxides from the crucible during the melt and after it has been emptied. Be sure to clean the crucible in the hot stage often. Molten Metal Systems recommends the use of Excel Tricoat PD for optimal crucible life if the fluxes are borax or NaCl (used normally in copper/copper alloys and precious metal). If using Sr and Na fluxes in aluminium alloys, Molten Metal Systems recommends our Syncarb or Alustar crucibles. >>Top
How I can prevent bottom cracking?
Use the correct stand (pedestal, base block) size as recommended by your Molten Metal Systems representative. The stand should be made from the same material as the crucible material. Preheat the crucible carefully according to Molten Metal Systems recommendations. Do not use any parting refractory material to separate the crucible from the stand. >>Top
How I can prevent crucible early oxidation resulting in crucible cracks on top edge?
You must ensure that the furnace burner is adjusted correctly. The furnace chamber must be closed to prevent air access in to melting chamber. The top edge of the crucible should be covered with a furnace ring that is of the correct size. >>Top
Why are there different preheating procedures for different crucibles and does it really matter?
Crucibles are made of different materials with different properties. So they may require different preheating procedures. Discuss with your local representative if you have questions. >>Top
If I don’t clean the crucible regularly, what can happen? How often do I need to clean the crucible?
Normally the crucible should be cleaned after each melt or at least once per shift in holding applications, or any time that dross starts to become stuck on the crucible’s inside surface. If dross is not cleaned from the crucible, then it is likely that during the next heating the dross (with a much higher thermal expansion than the crucible material ) will cause a crack in the crucible wall. >>Top
How long is the pre heat for first use ? Can I use it for gas or oil fired burners?
To get the correct instructions for preheating please consult your local representative or view our Installation and Heating procedures on this website. >>Top
How long is the first heat for precious metals if I use a gas fired burner or an oil fired burner?
To get the correct instructions for preheating please consult your local representative or view our Installation and Heating procedures on this website. >>Top
What is the crucible installation procedure for bale out and tilting furnaces?
All furnaces have different designs and therefore should be dealt with individually. Please consult your local representative or view our installation and heating procedures on this website. >>Top
Foundry Products
Do you have only one size of impeller on your degassing rotor?
No, we can supply a range of diameters to suit customer’s applications. Our standard degassing rotor has a 6 vane impeller which is 150mm diameter with a 90mm dia shaft with a variety of couplings to suit customers degassing machines. We can also supply a larger 6 vane impeller in diameters ranging from 180 to 200mm. >>Top
What is the normal nitrogen flow for degassing rotors and degassing tubes?
152,471
701
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Introduction: Dual Fuel Metal Melting Furnace
About: I have a compulsion to make stuff, all kinds of stuff. I'm glad to be here...
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I got such a great response from the Easy Dual Fuel Furnace Burner that it only made sense to follow it up with the rest of the furnace.
This furnace will be able to handle melting aluminum and bronze with no trouble. In theory it should be able to melt iron too but that's probably pushing it.
I've been using my furnace for a couple years now and it has worked out quite well. My design is based on information I picked up from the backyard metalcasting forum. It's a great resource and community. There are a bunch of furnace builds there exploring a variety of ideas. I recommend checking it out. I'd also read thiscomprehensive guide for a general overview of metal casting and furnace design.
Step 1: General Plan
The basic concept is that we are making an insulated container that can withstand temperatures of up to degrees. The dimensions don't need to be precise but you will have better results if you stick with the general program. I wanted a furnace that would let me cast a decent amount of metal, about 5 lbs aluminum. It needs to be sturdy but as inexpensive as possible to make and run.
The furnace is really simple. It's just a metal container with a lid, a drain and a hole for the burner. It is filled with high temperature insulation to retain the heat and a sturdy inner lining (hot face) to withstand the flame from the burner.
I based my design around a small metal barrel that I got from a salvage place. The sheet metal was thick enough to weld to (pretty much) and not galvanized. The zinc coating on galvanazed metal containers will burn and make a noxious smoke so don't use it. Otherwise any metal container should make a serviceable shell for the furnace. I used bits of pipe and angle iron from my scrap pile for the rest of the metal parts.
I made my own insulation because it was substantially cheaper than buying commercial insulation and I just wanted to try it. I did buy a bag of high temperature refractory cement for the hot face.
The shell is filled with insulation leaving an airspace of roughly 2" on all sides between the crucible and the inside of the furnace.
Step 2: Dimensions
My barrel for the outer shell is is 17" high x 14" dia. I cut the top 3.5" off the barrel for the lid. The shell is filled with 2.5" of insulation and an additional 1/2" of hot face for 3" total. I filled the floor a little deeper- 4.5" of insulation and 1/2" hot face. This left an inside cavity of 9.5" high X 8"dia. There is a 4.5" hole in the top to let the exhaust out and to access the crucible for feeding it metal.
Step 3: Mix the Insulation
I wish I could say that I thought of starting with mixing the insulation ahead of time when I did my build. You can benefit from my experience and start it first.
The insulation needs to:
Be strong enough to withstand some banging around
Not melt at high temperatures, it should withstand degrees F at least
Insulating enough to retain heat
After hunting around the internet I came across a low-tech method to make fire bricks. It was a mixture of fire clay and sawdust. When it is fired for the first time the clay hardens and the sawdust burns out leaving little air pockets. You are left with a lightweight insulating product that just laughs at extreme temperatures.
The fire clay is a very high temperature ceramic that comes in a powder form. You can get it at pottery supply stores. I got a 50 lb bag of Hawthorn fire clay for $20. I used about 1/2 of the bag for my project. Make sure to ask about the temperature rating of the clay. You want something that won't break down at high temperatures. Do not use Portland cement (the stuff concrete is made with) for your binder; it can't take the heat and will just break down over a few uses.
I used shavings from a planer for my filler because they were fluffier than regular sawdust. You can get it from free from any commercial woodshop.
RecipeAll of the measurements are by volume.
I used a big coffee can to measure with and a large plastic storage container to mix in.
First make a dry mix of 3 parts sawdust and one part fire clay
Mix it well until the clay is well distributed with the sawdust.
Add one part water to the dry mix
Mix well again
Let the mixture sit at least 12 hrs.
This allows the water to fully hydrate the clay. You will be able to tell the difference once it is ready. The mixture will be less sticky on your hands and form a nice ball easily.
While you are waiting for the insulation to hydrate you can start on making the forms for casting.
Step 4: The Lid
The first step is to cut the top off the barrel for the lid. I used a grinder with a cutoff wheel to slice off the top 3.5" of the barrel. File or sand the ground edges so they aren't sharp after you are done.
Take the piece you just cut off and place it upside down on a board covered with a sheet of plastic. The side facing up will be the side that faces the inside of the furnace. Make a cylindrical form for the vent. This needs to be 1" dia larger than the final hole. In my case I wanted a 4.5" vent so my form needed to be 5.5" I like to wrap my forms in plastic so that they are easy to remove after the castable is dry. I used a dog food bag (a little tougher and stiffer than plastic sheeting) for this project and it worked great.
Cut some remesh wire or something similar, preferably not galvanized, to support the insulation. Weld it to the lid. Weld a couple tabs with holes drilled in them too. We'll use these to hang the lid later.
Fill the lid with insulation leaving a 1/2" space at the top for the hot face cement. I forgot and had to scrape it out later as well as widen the vent. No worries, it all worked out.
Set the lid somewhere warm to dry. This will take a while. Plan on a week to ten days or more. There is no chemical reaction going on here, the fire clay is just drying out. Cover it lightly with plastic if it starts to get a dry skin. Wait until it is firm to the touch, it can be a little pliable but not squishy before you add the next layer to it.
Step 5: The Body
The body is a little trickier to mold but nothing that we can't handle. There are three components that we need to consider when making the mold: the inside cavity, the tuyere (hole for the burner tube), and the drain.
The inner cavity is straight forward just make a form that is 1" dia wider than the final cavity size. I cut a couple pieces of 1" thick styrofoam into 9" circles and wrapped them with sheet metal to make a cylinder. Use duct tape to hold it all together. Make a sleeve of plastic or dog food bag that fits snuggly around the form.
The tuyere is formed by a cylinder that comes into the furnace tangentially to the inner cavity. This allows the flame to swirl around the bottom of the crucible rather than just blast it at one spot. Place the inner cavity form into the furnace and inset the tuyere tube to mark it for cutting. It enters the shell a little higher than the finished height of the bottom of the furnace. Ideally the tuyere form also needs to be a little wider than the finished burner so that it can get packed with the hot face cement. Don't forget to wrap it with plastic. Weld a piece of pipe to the outside of the shell to support the burner.
I had a 5" finished floor height so the bottom of the tuyere hole was set at 5.5" The tube I used for the form was just a little bigger than the burner tube because that's what I had on hand.
Originally I was going to use a vertical drain but later opted for a horizontal one. When you are melting down metal parts from the junkyard to make ingots it's nice to just remove the crucible and let the molten metal run out of the furnace into an ingot mold. A horizontal drain makes it a lot easier to do that.
I used a piece of 2.5" dia pipe and cut it at a 45 degree angle three inches from the end. I cut a hole in the shell and welded the drain on. The bottom of the hole for the drain should be a little below the finished floor level so that it will, well....drain. This tube is oriented perpendicular to the inner cavity. Looking down at the top of the furnace if the tuyere is entering at 12:00 the drain will be at 9:00.
Once all the form parts have been test fit remove them and fill the bottom of the shell with insulation until it is 1/2" lower than the finished floor height. insert the form parts and carefully pack insulation around them. Fill the furnace with insulation until it is 1/2" from the top. Use a stick to pack the insulation firmly as you fill the walls.
Let the furnace dry for a week and then carefully remove the forms if the insulation feels ready. If there are voids or things crumble a little when you are removing the forms just pack a little wet insulation where you need it and sculpt it to fit. It's very accommodating to work with. Continue to let it dry, lightly covered if necessary, until it is firm to the touch.
Step 6: Other Bits
While you're at it, cast some plinths and an exhaust cover or two from the insulation mix. The plinth is a little puck that goes under the crucible and I bet you can guess where the exhaust cover goes. :) Make sure to make it bigger than the vent...
Step 7: The Hot Face
The hot face is the inner liner of the furnace. It is made from a specially formulated refractory (high temp, degree) cement. The upside of refractory cement is that it is super hard, resists breaking down and doesn't usually shrink or crack as it dries. In other words it's good at it's job. The downside is that it can be hard to source and is pretty expensive- around $90-$100 a bag. You shouldn't need more than a bag to line your furnace. Ceramic supply houses, industrial suppliers or furnace repair guys are good places to look.
If a hundred bucks is a bit hard to swallow there are a couple workarounds I can think of. There is a high temperature mortar used for building and repairing fireplaces. It usually comes premixed in a can and can be troweled or brushed on to a surface. It can be found in hardware stores. Make sure it's high temp. It should give you a decent surface and not cost so much. The other route is to just say forget it I'm not lining this thing. It will wear down a little faster but will still work fine. If you go this route just forget the whole 1/2" bigger stuff when you are casting and fill everything to the top.
If you decide to go with the high temp cement (Why not? I only want to build this thing once...) Be careful when you mix it. It goes from too dry to too wet very quickly and a soupy mix won't fly here. You want it wet enough that it is not crumbly but firm enough that you can trowel it onto a vertical wall and it will stick and not sag. Apply a half inch of cement inside the the vent and on top of the lid. I made a smaller form and packed cement between it and the insulation and then troweled more on the top.
Same with the body of the furnace. Pack it on with your hand and smooth it. Line the drain and tuyere too.
The cement should be pretty darn hard in 24 hours.
Step 8: Drying
Since we used a clay and sawdust mixture for the insulation there is still going to be a considerable amount of moisture contained in it even when it appears dry. You need to drive out as much of this moisture as you can before bringing the furnace up to high temperatures. I was worried about steam being trapped in between the hot face and the shell so I drilled several holes in the top of body with a masonry drill and then some in in the metal shell. In retrospect I think I went overboard. Four holes in the top and half a dozen in the shell would have been fine.
To speed up the drying process I stuck a 100 watt light bulb (remember those?) inside the furnace, laid the lid on top and left it going for a couple days wrapped and covered with fiberglass insulation. As it warmed up it steamed like a crock pot. Once it was done steaming I pulled out the bulb. The insulation in my lid shrank and cracked slightly but the cement held everything together.
Step 9: Attach the Lid
Now we need to attach the lid to the furnace. I made a simple hinge out of pipe that lets me swing the lid in either direction. The lid has two tabs welded to it that stick up from the top edge. These are bolted to the V shaped frame which is welded to a piece of pipe that slips into a larger piece of pipe welded to the back of the shell. I had to weld an additional piece of plate to the shell in order to reinforce it and get the spacing right. Adjust the lid so it sits 1/4" or so above the body of the furnace. You don't want them to drag on each other. Getting the lid hinge right is a little fiddly. Take your time and get it right. You don't want problems when it's super hot.
I attached a couple wheels on the bottom and a leg in the front too.
Step 10: Accessories
A furnace that gets really hot is nice but without the right accessories it's kind of useless. You are going to need to make a crucible, some tongs and a hook for the crucible, a paddle/scoop for cleaning the molten metal, some more tongs for grabbing hot stuff and an ingot mold to get started. A good time to work on this stuff is the week or two while you're waiting for the insulation to dry.
Crucible - I used a piece of pipe from the junkyard. It's 4 1/2" in dia and cut to 6" high. I used a piece of 1/4" plate for the bottom. Cut it out in a circle and weld it to the bottom. Make sure you did a good job welding the bottom on. You don't want molten metal dribbling out. I figure water tight is a good test. There are a variety of ways to lift the crucible out of the furnace and pour it. I went with putting a pair of lugs on the top and a loop in the back because it seemed the most secure to me. They are made from a couple bolts and a nut I had in the shop. Weld them on securely.
Tongs, hook and scoop- I used metal that was in the shop and bent it to shape. I used washers for the bottom of the tongs. You could bend circles if you were inclined. Make sure they fit over the lugs on the top of the crucible. The hook is just a piece of 1/2" bar bent at the end for tilting the crucible. The scoop is rebar and a piece of sheet metal. The scoop part is 3" wide and bent up at the end to pull out crud from the top of the molten metal.
Extra Tongs- I got a pair of blacksmith tongs and they are really handy for moving hot stuff around. You can make do with a big pair of slip joint pliers but it 's gonna be hot.
Ingot mold- Mine is a piece of large angle iron with some plate steel welded on either end. You can go as simple as a muffin tin but it's going to warp and twist over time.
Step 11: Firing
The first firing of the furnace is a crucial one. You are firing all the refractory materials and turning them into ceramics. It is important to bring them up to temperature sloooowly. Some people recommend a heat lamp first to start the heating process. I think that's a bit cautious.
Put the plinths and exhaust cover into the furnace.
Insert the burner and attach the propane and fan to it.
Turn on the fan but choke it down until almost nothing is coming out.
Light a torch and put it in the furnace.
Turn on the propane until it lights.
Remove the torch.
I start with a very gentle flame just barely licking out of the end of the burner. Let the very low flame heat up the furnace for an hour. This should drive a lot of the moisture out. If after an hour there is no steam escaping from the furnace go ahead and turn the burner up some. Not a lot, just a little, wait another hour. Turn it to "medium" and wait another hour. Finally, crank it. As the furnace heats up especially the first couple times it will smoke as the sawdust burns out of the insulation. It will stop after a few uses. Depending on the power of your burner the furnace should start to glow anywhere from a dull red to bright yellow.
Success?
Awesome!Good job!
Turn off the furnace, Let it cool down and take out the plinths and exhaust cover. They should be light weight, yellowish and generally look like soft fire brick. If they fired well then you can assume the rest of the furnace did too.
Use a plinth under the crucible and the cover on top of the vent to adjust the furnace. You can choke it down some but never cover the top all together. The furnace needs to breathe.
Over time you will learn how to adjust the furnace and tune the burner by ear.
Last Safety Talk
Melting metal at home is awesome. No doubt about it.
Going to the hospital......not so awesome.
Here's some cliff notes for being safe with molten metal:
Molten metal will burn you faster than you can react to it.
Leather boots are a must. Smart people wear gloves and safety glasses too.
Molten metal can superheat a little bit of water and spatter.
Preheat any metal to be melted, ingot molds and tools before getting them in contact with molten metal.
Don't drip metal onto damp surfaces especially concrete or stone.
Melting metal or burning out molds can produce poisonous gasses.
Make sure you are in a well ventilated area preferably outside.
Wear a respirator with the correct cartridges if you are creating a lot of smoke.
Metal furnaces are a combustion source.
Don't use the furnace in a closed room. You can asphixiate.
Prep your work area and keep combustibles away from where you are working.
Silica dust from sand can be a hazard.
If you work with sand molds wear a respirator or at least a dust mask when working with the sand. It's the tiny particles that you can't see that can accumulate in your lungs and cause silicosis over time.
This list is not exhaustive. Use the precautions that you feel are appropriate.
If you have any trouble following the instructions or need more explanation please let me know in the comments.
If you build a furnace post pictures in the comments so we can check it out.
Interested in what we're up to lately? Updates happen pretty frequently on Instagram and YouTube.
Thanks!!!
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