Pin Gauge Basic Knowledge

Pin gauge is suitable for the measurement of hole diameter, hole distance, small diameter of internal thread in mechanical and electronic processing, especially suitable for the measurement of bending slot width and mold size.

RTP GAUGE Product Page

Used to check the position, measure the size of the hole, check the distance between the two holes, can also be used for through stop gauge and measure the depth of the hole, is the standardization of the hole inspection of the necessary inspection tool, with the international advanced laser detector to detect the workpiece. And widely used in electronic boards, circuit boards, molds, precision machinery manufacturing and other fields of various high-precision technology.

Regular maintenance and calibration of the gauge will help ensure that your hole checks are accurate and will help increase the tool life of the gauge. Carelessness can lead to unreliable instruments. Next we will discuss some habits you can develop to care for your pin gauges.

Proper Usage

We encourage you to start by using the pin gauge properly. In most cases, pin gauges can be used incorrectly and become out of size or unreliable. The most common mistake users make is to apply too much force when using a gauge. When too much force is applied to the gauge, it can damage your gauge and cause it to deviate from the desired size. Most importantly, we recommend that you use a pin vise to handle the pin gauge. This way it will not be affected by the temperature of your bare hands and will maintain its accuracy.

Contact us to discuss your requirements of pin gauge set. Our experienced sales team can help you identify the options that best suit your needs.

Proper Storage

Storing your pin gauge correctly is another way to extend the life of your pin gauge tool. Ideally, it should be protected from external environmental factors such as heat and moisture. Over time, these things can affect the pin gauge. We recommend that you have a suitable container for your pin gauges. Eisen pin gauges are packed individually in storage containers. This ensures that the gauges are stored in a cool, dry environment.
This is especially important if you have a set of pin gauges. We recommend separating them into small boxes. When pin gauges are not separated and come into contact with each other, we run the risk of damaging the pin gauges.

Proper Maintenance

The correct way to keep your pin gauges in good working condition is to perform regular maintenance. To ensure pin gauges are accurate, maintenance should be performed to verify that all components are up to standard. Some things to look for during maintenance include dust, debris and oil. These elements can cause the gauge to corrode.

Proper Calibration

Periodic calibration is the best way to check the accuracy of the gauge. Most manufacturers recommend an annual calibration. However, we believe that the calibration of a pin gauge should depend on how often the tool is used. The more frequently a gauge is used, the more likely it is to be damaged by wear and tear. Therefore, it is best to calibrate a pin gauge that is used frequently more than once a year.

If you want to learn more, please visit our website ceramic pin gauge.

Following the Schwarz' advice, as I have for a bunch of stuff getting started, I got a tite-mark gauge. It's been fine thus far but after watching a Frank Klausz youtube video of him doing a dovetail drawer, I noticed how easily he marked out long grain compared to Schwarz using the tite-mark. Got to thinking that there was probably a reason that previous generations developed the pin gauge to begin with. Trying it out, I used a scratch awl to mark out long grain and it was easier than a knife to me.

So how many of you use a pin gauge? Did you make it yourself? Is there a place to find a good new pin gauge nowadays?

I like the stanley #65. Here is one to bid on: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Stan...item4d0e281f00

The head on these locks in an extremely tight manner making them better than most gauges. I take the pin out and measure it for diameter. Then go to the store and buy a drill bit of the same size. I use the none drill end for the new pin. Grind one side of the drill stem to a curve by grinding free hand. You don't want to burn the new pin so take it slow. You can water dip it often using a pliers or hold it in your hand where you will feel the heat before it will burn. You can finish it on a stone. Reinstall the new pin after you cut or grind off the old drill portion. You want to have the curved portion toward the marking gauge head and parallel to the head. This gives you the advantage of a cutting gauge and the advantages of the the pin. Makes a dam fine gauge superior to any you can buy today. Cheap and you get the joy of making your own tool. Jim

Tony:

I have a Tite Mark and a LV version of the same.

They both improve performance by a sharpening. Remove the wheel, lay it flat side down on a grit abrasive, press down with a light pressure , and make a few figure eights. Stop, rotate the wheel 90 degrees and repeat, then another 1/4 turn and so on till you have done the 360 degrees.
Look at the face and ensure you have a flat surface right to the bevel. Repeat on grit in the same manner to keep an even bevel all around.
Install and enjoy a much improved cutting gauge.
BTW, the LV version needs a fair amount more ' sharpening ' but both work very nicely after a tune up. The sharper edge will cut the long grain fibres better. A dull pin style gauge won't work worth a darn either. Don't waste your $$ yet!!
Good luck.

Klausz makes everything look easy. Can't go by that.


Generally a mark made by a knife gauge used with the grain or into end grain can get lost and be hard to see.
The pin gauge mark is wider and can be seen easier when marking with the grain.
The knife gauge is good across the grain.
You can't have too many marking gauges when you get to making stuff. Can set each one to a different dimension and so go to town on a stack of components without changing a gauge back and forth.
So I would recommend getting one of each of the various gauges and see what you like best. You can always make duplicates of the one you like once you have one to use as a sample.


One of the NICEST gauges I have seen is the one Jim Kingshot used to use.
I really recommend his video to so be sure to at least watch it for the other things that can be gleaned from the video.
http://www.amazon.com/DVD-Dovetails-...=jim+kingshott


With the grain I tend to use the Marples brand pin gauge especially when it doesn't have to be ultra precise like for table top thickness or other long planks to plane to thickness.
http://www.amazon.com/Marples-M-...+marking+gauge


and across the grain I use one of the gauges I made which have reground exacto blades.


I have a couple of the Veritas disc marking gauges and they fall some where in between.
Rather than the awl I use two or three Japanese style marking knives I made from files. Flat back with specifically ground knife edges. See Toshio book for specifics.
Used where a gauge can't go.

• IMG_.jpg (50.4 KB, 96 views)
• The shape of the knife.JPG (70.1 KB, 73 views)

Many different types. My preference is to go with either a cutting gauge with a knife blade or the wheel blades. The pin type are only useful with the grain, and even then most have been converted to a knife (like my #65), so they lose hat advantage. Across the grain pins can tear. For that matter knives can work just fine with the grain as long as you take several light passes to avoid getting caught in the grain.

Marking gauge types ..


Three wheel gauges.



They all work well but my favourite at this time is the Anniversary LV in stainless steel. The variable fence registration is terrific when getting into tight spaces or working long lengths.


Japanese Kinshiro





One on the cheap ..




http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMad...nTheCheap.html


Stanley #65 pin gauge

Note the angles head and shaft, which presentsbthe pin at an angle. Best pin gauge ever made?




The mother of all marking gauges ..





Regards from Joburg (in transit to Cape Town)

Derek