Refractory Coatings - Beginners Place - Bladesmith's Forum Board

I'm about to build my first gas forge and I have a question about refractory coatings. I know people ask about refractory coatings all the time, but I couldn't find an answer to this question in particular.

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I plan on ordering from Ellis Custom Knifeworks, and I'm pretty sure I'll be getting the 2" Inswool. I'm also looking at Satanite, ITC-100, and Bubble Alumina.

I'm wondering what would be the best combination of these three for durability and efficiency. I plan on doing some forge welding, so flux-resistance is important. I'd rather not have to touch up the lining very often. I also don't mind spending more at the start if it will save me money on fuel later on.

It seems as though Satanite is sort of the standard coating for Inswool, ITC-100 is very good at reflecting IR, and Bubble Alumina is very flux-resistant.

So would a good combination be a coating of Satanite over the wool, followed by ITC-100, and then Bubble Alumina? I'm not sure about the order in which they should be applied, or whether or not using all three is overkill.

Any help is appreciated.

I sell Kast-0-Lite degree ($12.00 for 6#) and Kast-0-Lite degree ($15.00 for 6#) and Plistix ($10.00) a pint. Plistix is similar to ITC 100 but is much cheeper. I also have Inswool 8# one inch ceramic blanket for $7.00 per foot (2' wide).

The Kast-0-Lite products are light weight and resistant to the flux (not impervious) and are insulating castable refectory. I suggest 1" of Inswool (although you can put two layers if you want the 2"). I use a casting of 1/4" to 1/2" thick. This makes a very tough forge that hold up well. I have been using mine for about 4 years and only have one small damaged place were a student tried to force a wedged forging out instead of moving is around to find the way that he got it in to begin with..

The Plistix (or ITC 100 if you choose to use it) is an over coat and reflects the IR back into the forge. If you put anything over it you are defeating it. I have used both and feel that the results are similar. I built a forge for a student and after it cured I put in a piece of 1" square and timed to see how long it would take for it to come up to forging temp. It took 11 minutes. Then the next day I painted the inside with Plistix. After it had dried I put in the same piece of 1" square and again timed it to get to forging temp. It took 6 minutes.

Because the Kast-0-Lite is insulating and the Plistix is reflecting the IR back into the forge the heat is staying where you need it. After forging all day long I can still reach up and touch the outside shell of my forge. Now, I didn't say that I was hugging it or grabbing it but I can touch it.

I suggest casting all the way around the forge, including the floor. Fire brick is a heat sink. I do have some ceramic insulators (about 4" square and shaped kind of like an I beam for $2.00 each) that I put on the floor of my forge. Flux can drip onto it and they hold your metal up so that the hot air can circulate around the metal and heat it better. Remember that flux is not glue. You only need enough to melt and form a glass like coating over the metal. The flux should not be dripping off onto the floor. I also have some ceramic pieces that will hold two knives edge down (or up) in the forge to aid in the more uniform and quicker heating. They are also good for standing the forged blade up while cooling or while in the HT furnace. Also $2.00 each.

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No, the stainless doesn't affect the welds. A friend of mine used to use some 3/16" 410 SS sheet as a drip pan and it worked fine for welding, but would tend to burn out after a hundred hours or so of heavy use. Now his forge floor is some sort of castable/rammable with a little flux-gutter carved in so it just runs out the door. It does take it around 20 minutes to get to full welding heat with the extra thermal mass, versus around 10-15 minutes before, but it was worth it to him for the type of work he does. I've used that forge (and his press!) twice to build up really big billets I couldn't handle easily with my coal forge.

After looking at your forge in the photos section, the best thing I think you could do would be to try and angle the burner(s) a bit to get more of a swirl going on. It's the radiant heat off the liner that heats the steel without scaling, not the direct flame.

It’s important to choose the correct refractory solution for boiler.

For boilers, choosing the right refractory material is very important. The refractory material of the boiler not only affects its operating life, but is also directly related to the safety and performance of the boiler. When selecting refractory materials, we need to consider the different parts of the boiler and the operating conditions to ensure that the most suitable solution is selected.

Choose Correct Refractory Solution for Different Parts of Boiler

First, let’s take a look at the refractory materials used in various parts of the boiler:

Ignition Air Duct

The ignition air duct is located in the heating part of the boiler and has the characteristics of rapid temperature rise and high temperature. When selecting refractory brick, insulating brick or other products, consider higher operating temperatures, excellent thermal shock resistance and shedding resistance.

Water-Cooled Air Chamber

Hot air passes through the water-cooled air chamber. This part involves little wear and tear, and the operating temperature is around 700-°C. When selecting refractory materials, thermal shock stability, shedding resistance and compressive strength need to be considered.

Fluidized Bed Wind Plate

The working temperature of the fluidized bed air plate in the boiler is about 800-°C. When selecting refractory materials, the balancing effects of fixed wind phase and horizontal angle need to be considered. Some commonly used refractory materials include high alumina cement and refractory castables.

Furnace

The furnace is the main part of the boiler, including the furnace inlet and outlet, furnace top, superheater and steering chamber. These parts are subject to severe wear and temperature changes. When selecting furnace monolithic refractories and other products, we need to pay attention to whether they have excellent corrosion resistance, thermal conductivity, reburning line change rate and wear resistance.

Separator

The inlet flue, straight tube section and push body of the separator need to face harsh working conditions. When selecting refractory materials, you need to pay attention to factors such as wear resistance and operating temperature.

Riser

The backflow of the boiler’s riser pipe and return device is uneven, which has a greater impact on the lining. When selecting refractory materials for this part, you need to pay attention to thermal shock issues and choose refractory materials with high strength and good wear resistance.

Rear Smoke Channel

The working temperature of the tail flue is lower and the wear on the lining is smaller. Generally, ordinary clay refractory bricks can be used for construction.

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